#Van_Life

Intake Manifold Runner Position removal/replacement

 
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INTAKE MANIFOLD, REPLACE
Intake manifold is of split design, meaning that there are two halves. Whenever intake manifold is removed, inspect shared coolant passage in front of intake manifold for leaks. Repair as required.
1. Remove engine cover.
2. Drain cooling system into a suitable container.
3. Remove coolant reservoir and position aside.
4. Remove strut tower support.
5. Remove air cleaner housing cover and air inlet tube.
6. Remove charge air outlet tube.
7. Remove right rear engine cover bracket, and disconnect transmission oil level indicator tube retaining bolt.
8. Remove turbocharger.
9. Remove turbocharger oil housing adaptor and gasket. Observe position of turbocharger oil passage housing and gasket. Failure to properly position gasket during assembly will result in immediate turbocharger failure after assembly.
10. Remove EGR tube to left cylinder head.
11. Disconnect coolant hose at EGR housing.
12. Disconnect EGR and EGR temperature sensor wiring harness connectors.
13. Disconnect swirl valve module wiring harness connector.
14. Remove left and righthand fuel rail and high pressure lines.
15. Disconnect fuel return hoses at injectors.
16. Disconnect return fuel hose harness and position aside.
17. Remove fuel rail transfer line.
18. Remove fuel filter assembly.
19. Remove fuel filter supply, and return pipe harness and position aside.
20. Remove glow plug module.
21. Remove EGR air control valve assembly.
22. Remove intake manifold and gasket. Do not rest intake manifold on swirl valve actuator. Care must be taken when handling swirl valve assembly.
23. Reverse procedure to install.

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P 2015 Mercedes Sprinter 3.0L Turbo Diesel

This morning. (Thank goodness I have GREAT days when I'm retired)
My LIFE/Home/Vehicle VAN blew a P 2015 error code:
(This issue WAS logged in the ECM, as intermittent. TODAY happened to be the day the actuator ACTUALLY froze. AND THREW the error code) Indicating a sensor fault on Bank 1. Throttle Position Actuator Sensor
It aligns with the "Throttle Position Sensor" underneath your gas pedal. Since there's no longer LINKAGE for your throttle. It's all electronic, correct?! :)
Anywho. By following this video. My hypothesis was correct. It was the actuator versus LOW fuel or a bad Fuel Pump.
Right now I have no "Kick Down" But if you paddle shift through the gears. I have "Boost".
Which means, The actuator is not aligning with the throttle position sensor. To allow the CORRECT amount of air flow through the MANIFOLD.
Which then dumps in TOO MUCH DIESEL FUEL, lowers your MPG's... And you have SIGNIFICANTLY NO THRUST...
Tomorrow. By relieving the stress off the Throttle Position Actuator (Cleaning/Rebuilding) You will therefore be allowing BETTER FUEL PERFORMANCE, MORE BOOST, MORE THRUST & better everything... I guess.
This ole' back Yard mechanic still has a few tricks up his sleeve.
:/

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Hydrogen-Hybrid

HHO, Hydrogen, Dry Cell

So, I've applied 12.6V -- The voltage is going through the provided AMP meter. But for whatever reason, I am not producing the 1.5L of HHO gas/minute...?

Today, I did learn that dry cells are GRAVITY fed, so tomorrow I will need to put the water solution above the cell.

But I will have to provide my findings later. Still right now my MPG's are not worth mentioning. Until I have a final result. :) 

Aur Revoir

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Ukiah Life

Everyone tonight needs to look up defending your rights. FlexYourRights.org

Police ask too many questions that only get you arrested. Police are lawfully allowed to lie to you. You have EVERY RIGHT to invoke the 5th ammendment and say you will not be answering anymore questions.

They pulled you over for a reason, let him/her do their job. And be on their way.

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